Napa

Olive & Hay is a solid resort wine list that earns its Wine Spectator Award of Excellence without doing anything flashy — California coverage is strong, the Italian varietal nods add character, and the pricing stays within reason on the right picks. Send a friend here if they want to drink well in Napa without doing homework first.

Ember Steak is a solid, unpretentious Napa steakhouse wine list — it does California classics well, doesn't embarrass itself on storage or service, but the steep markups and lack of adventurousness keep it from being anything more than a reliable choice. Send a friend here if they love big Napa Cabs and don't want to think too hard; tell them to skip the trophy bottles.

Compline is doing the real work in Downtown Napa — a deep, credible list with a sommelier who can actually guide you through it, even if the top-shelf pricing reflects the zip code. If you're serious about wine and eating in Napa proper, this is where you go.

Cole's Chop House is a proper wine destination in a town full of them — the depth of the list, the caliber of the producers, and the seriousness of the storage all earn the Rager badge. If you're coming for steak in Napa and want a cellar that can actually keep up with the meal, this is your place.

Brix is exactly what a Napa Valley estate restaurant should be — a deep, California-focused list served in a setting that earns it, with nearly two decades of Wine Spectator recognition to back it up. Markups run steep as expected for this zip code, but if you're going to splurge on California wine anywhere, doing it while looking out at the vines seems fair.

La Toque is the real thing — a Grand Award list with the staff and storage to back it up, in a room that takes wine as seriously as the food. Markups are steep because Napa is Napa, but the depth and curation here justify the trip on the wine program alone.