61 Osteria

The list lands like a statement. Three hundred to five hundred selections in a Fort Worth osteria is not what you're expecting when you walk in off West Seventh, and the Italy-first architecture makes it immediately clear that someone here takes this seriously. This is not a steakhouse wine list with a pasta menu bolted on — it's the real thing.

Italy is the backbone and it's a strong one: Barolo from Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, and Gaja, Brunello from Biondi-Santi and Casanova di Neri, and the Super Tuscan trifecta of Sassicaia, Ornellaia, and Tignanello all make appearances. The Amarone section with Dal Forno Romano alone is worth the visit for serious red drinkers. California and France fill in the flanks responsibly — Opus One and Far Niente for the Napa crowd, Louis Jadot and Drouhin holding down Burgundy — but the Italian depth is where this list separates itself from every other upscale dining room in North Texas. The one gap: a deeper dive into Southern Italy or natural-leaning producers would push this into truly rarefied territory.

With 20 to 35 pours available by the glass, the program is generous enough to actually explore rather than just survive. Prices run $12 to $22 a glass, which is fair for the caliber of restaurant. We'd push staff to tell you what's rotating — sommeliers David Donalson and Daniel Wood are on the floor and know their stuff.