Aquavit

The wine list at Aquavit arrives with the same quiet confidence as the room itself — all clean lines and zero clutter. Five hundred-plus bottles, anchored hard in Burgundy and Champagne, signal immediately that this kitchen takes its pours as seriously as its gravlax. This is a list built for people who know what they want and are willing to pay for it.

Burgundy is the undisputed star here — names like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Leroy, and Domaine Leflaive's Puligny-Montrachet give the list genuine depth and trophy-hunting appeal. Germany gets real respect too, with Egon Müller from the Mosel and Dönnhoff from the Nahe covering the Riesling spectrum from electric to lush — a smart call given how well German whites track with Nordic cuisine. California shows up through Ridge Vineyards, Italy via Gaja, and Champagne through Krug Grande Cuvée and Billecart-Salmon, rounding out a list that earns its Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator every year since 2014. The gaps are minor — you won't find much natural wine or anything from the Southern Hemisphere, but that's very much by design.

With 16 to 24 options by the glass, there's enough range to navigate a multi-course tasting menu without repeating yourself. The program leans Old World, which is exactly right for the food. We'd push hard for a Riesling pour early in the meal — it's the most natural fit for what's coming out of the kitchen.