Asador Bastian
Spain's Greatest Hits in a River North Townhouse
River North ยท Chicago ยท Spanish, Steakhouse ยท Visit Website โ
Reviewed April 13, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
You walk into olive green leather banquettes and vintage Murano glass chandeliers, and the wine list matches the room โ serious, considered, and unapologetically Spanish. This isn't a list that's trying to please everyone; it's a love letter to the Iberian Peninsula written by someone who actually knows the words. A steakhouse in Chicago with Vega Sicilia and Pingus on the menu is not something you see every day.
Selection Deep Dive
The list runs 150โ250 bottles deep with Spain doing nearly all the heavy lifting โ and doing it well. Rioja is the backbone: CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva, Muga Prado Enea, and R. Lรณpez de Heredia Viรฑa Tondonia represent the old-guard classics, while Telmo Rodriguez brings some contemporary range across multiple regions. Ribera del Duero flexes hard with Vega Sicilia Unico and Pingus sitting at the top of the list โ these are trophy bottles, not everyday pours, but their presence signals that Christian Shaum, the sommelier on staff, is building toward a real cellar. The gap is everywhere outside Spain: if you're looking for a French Burgundy or an Italian Barolo to anchor your steak dinner, you may find the options thin.
By the Glass
The by-the-glass program runs 12โ20 options with prices landing between $12 and $22, which is reasonable for a room this polished. Expect Spanish-forward pours that rotate with the list's overall focus โ you're not getting a token Malbec here. The upper end of that BTG range should get you something worth drinking; don't settle for whatever's cheapest if you're eating their best steak.
Numanthia Termes (Toro) โ $45
Toro is still one of Spain's most undervalued regions and Termes is Numanthia's entry point โ dense, serious Tempranillo that punches well above its bottle price. On a list that reaches into the hundreds, this is where you find real QPR.
R. Lรณpez de Heredia Viรฑa Tondonia (Rioja)
Most tables will gravitate toward the big Ribera names, but Viรฑa Tondonia is one of the most distinctive wines in all of Spain โ aged in American oak the old-fashioned way, with a tertiary, almost oxidative character that's unlike anything else on this list. The people who know, know.
Alvaro Palacios L'Ermita (Priorat)
An undeniably iconic wine, but at this price point in a restaurant setting you're paying a significant premium over retail for a bottle that needs years of cellar time to show its best. Unless you're celebrating something major, save L'Ermita for a night when you can actually do it justice.
CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva (Rioja) + best steak
Gran Reserva Rioja and a properly rested steak is one of the great no-brainer pairings in European-influenced dining โ the wine's structure and earthy, leathery depth cut through fat and amplify the char without overwhelming the beef. Imperial specifically has the age and complexity to hold its own against Bastian's main event.
๐ฒ The Bottom Line
If Spanish wine is your thing โ or you've been meaning to make it your thing โ Asador Bastian is the best argument in Chicago for why it should be. The markups aren't gentle, but the list is curated with real conviction and a sommelier who can actually guide you through it.
Comments
Get the Weekly Wingman
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.