Bygone
Rooftop glamour with a serious cellar underneath
Baltimore · Baltimore · American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 7, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
You're on the rooftop of the Four Seasons Baltimore, staring at the harbor, and then the wine list lands on the table — and it's immediately clear this place takes the bottle as seriously as the view. Four hundred-plus selections, a dedicated sommelier in Peter Chwazik, and a Best of Award of Excellence held since 2018: this isn't a wine list assembled by someone clicking around Wine.com at midnight. It has intention.
Selection Deep Dive
The list leans hard into its strengths — Burgundy and Champagne are the twin pillars here, with names like Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin anchoring the French side. California gets real estate too, with Ridge Monte Bello, Kistler Chardonnay, and Opus One showing up for the crowd that wants a conversation starter on the table. Bordeaux is represented by Château Lynch-Bages, which is a reliable signal that someone in the program actually understands Pauillac. The list doesn't wander much into natural wine or off-the-beaten-path regions, so if you're hunting for Jura or skin-contact Georgian amber, you're in the wrong zip code — but for what it does, it does extremely well.
By the Glass
Twenty to thirty-five options by the glass is a strong program, and at $14–$28 a pour, there's real range without forcing you to commit to a full bottle on a Tuesday. Billecart-Salmon Champagne by the glass alone is worth noting — that's a smart pour that a lot of restaurants at this level still fumble by going house-tier on bubbles. We'd push for more rotation to keep regulars engaged, but the baseline is high.
Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin — $90–$120 estimated
Jadot's Gevrey-Chambertin is a reliable, well-distributed Burgundy that gives you genuine Côte de Nuits character without requiring a second mortgage. In a list that reaches all the way to DRC, this is the bottle where you get the terroir story without the trophy price tag.
Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges
Faiveley doesn't get the same breathless attention as some Burgundy marquee names, but their Nuits-Saint-Georges is structured, age-worthy, and often undersold at restaurants like this where the DRC and Leflaive get all the eye contact. Order this and look like you know something.
Opus One
Opus One is a fine wine in the right context, but at a Four Seasons rooftop restaurant it's going to be marked up to a point where you're paying heavily for the label recognition. The Ridge Monte Bello next to it on the list is a more interesting bottle at almost certainly better relative value — and it'll start a better conversation.
Kistler Vineyards Chardonnay + Pan-seared duck breast
Kistler's Chardonnay has enough weight and texture to stand up to duck fat and seared skin without getting lost, and the wine's restrained oak and bright acidity cut through richness in a way that lighter whites can't manage. It's a slightly unexpected call — most people reach for red with duck — but it works.
🔥 The Bottom Line
Bygone is the kind of wine list that makes Baltimore dinner reservations worth planning around. The markups are real, but the depth, the sommelier, and the setting make this one of the better places to spend money on a serious bottle on the East Coast.
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