Cella Bistro

The list at Cella Bistro reads like it wants to be an Old World-focused gem but keeps hedging its bets with supermarket standbys. The Mediterranean and Italian bistro setting sets high expectations, and the list mostly keeps up — but the presence of Josh Cellars and Meiomi suggests whoever buys the wine is also shopping at Total Wine on autopilot. Come on a Tuesday and this conversation changes entirely.

The regional focus on Italy, France, and Spain is the right instinct for a place serving pasta, seafood, and mezze — but the actual producers on the list undercut that ambition. You're working with recognizable commercial labels rather than the kind of small-domaine finds that would make this list memorable. There's a moderate list size here, which means every slot counts, and burning real estate on Meiomi Pinot Noir and Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is a missed opportunity when there are genuinely exciting producers from Sicily, the Rhône, or Rioja at similar price points. That said, the bones are good — the Old World focus is real, and on a strong night, the list earns its bistro credentials.

Eight to fifteen by-the-glass options is a respectable spread for a neighborhood bistro, and Cella appears to rotate selections with some intention. The problem is that when your glass pours include commercial-tier bottles marked up aggressively, the by-the-glass math gets ugly fast. Order a bottle on Tuesday instead and you'll feel like you got away with something.