Centro
Napa Comfort Food With Italian Intentions
East Village · Des Moines · Italian-inspired · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 13, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
Centro's wine list reads like a safe bet — recognizable labels, Napa-heavy, and built for the table that wants something familiar without having to think too hard. There's a nod to Italy via Piedmont, which at least earns them some Italian restaurant credibility. It's not a list that excites, but it won't embarrass you either.
Selection Deep Dive
The backbone here is Quilt and Belle Glos, both solid producers but also two of the most ubiquitous restaurant labels in the Midwest — you've seen them before and you'll see them again. The Quilt lineup covers Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and a red blend, which checks the boxes but doesn't push anyone to explore. The lone bright spot is the Vite Colte Winery from Piedmont, a genuinely interesting Italian producer that suggests someone at Centro at least peeked past California when building this list. The gaps are real though: no Burgundy, no Rhône, nothing from southern Italy to echo the cuisine.
By the Glass
By-the-glass specifics aren't published, but given the list structure, expect the Quilt lineup and Belle Glos to anchor the pours. If the Vite Colte is available by the glass, that's the move — otherwise you're choosing between approachable and more approachable. The rotating element appears to surface mostly around their wine dinner events rather than the standard nightly program.
Quilt Fumé Blanc Napa — null
Fumé Blanc is consistently one of Napa's better-value white categories, and Quilt does it cleanly — crisp, food-friendly, and less marked up than the Chardonnay because fewer people order it. Smart choice at an Italian table.
Vite Colte Winery (Piedmont)
This is the one producer on the list that actually belongs in an Italian restaurant. Piedmont means Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto — wines with structure and a sense of place. Most tables here will walk right past it for the Quilt Cab. Don't be most tables.
Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Quilt Cab is a perfectly fine wine that restaurants consistently over-charge for because the label is recognizable and Cab drinkers don't push back on price. You're paying for the name recognition, not the glass. Save it for grocery store night.
Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir + Bruschetta
Las Alturas is a Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot with enough acidity and red fruit to cut through olive oil and tomato without steamrolling lighter starters. It's a lighter-moment wine that actually earns its place at the beginning of a meal.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Centro is a reliable East Village spot where the wine list does its job without doing anything memorable — the Vite Colte producer is a genuine bright spot worth seeking out, but mostly this is a Napa parade at Midwest restaurant prices. Go for the Italian food; be selective about what you pour.
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