Coleman's Irish Pub

Coleman's is a Syracuse institution and an honest-to-god neighborhood Irish pub — the kind of place where the Shamrock flag flies out front and everyone at the bar knows each other's first name. The wine list reads exactly like what it is: an afterthought bolted onto a beer-and-whiskey operation. Nobody came here for wine, and the list knows it.

Fifteen labels, almost all of them familiar faces from the bottom shelf of your local grocery store. CK Mondavi shows up three times — Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot — which tells you everything you need to know about the curatorial ambition here. There are a couple of bright spots: Whispering Angel Rosé brings a touch of Provence credibility, and Dr. Frank Riesling is a genuine nod to the Finger Lakes, which is practically in Coleman's backyard. The Altos Del Plata Malbec rounds out an otherwise California-heavy list with a bit of South American muscle. Everything else is filler.

Fourteen of the fifteen labels are available by the glass, which is generous in volume if not in quality. You're essentially getting the entire list poured one glass at a time, which is convenient when you just want something wet and red while you work through a shepherd's pie. Don't expect any rotation — this list has the energy of something that hasn't changed since the last World Cup.