Departure Restaurant and Lounge
Sky-High Views, Surprisingly Thoughtful Pours
Downtown · Portland · Pan-Asian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 10, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
You step off the elevator onto the 15th floor of The Nines Hotel and the wine list is the last thing on your mind — the city sprawls out below you and the room hums with energy. But when you actually sit down with the menu, there's more going on than the rooftop-bar-with-a-wine-list cliché suggests. Oregon gets its proper due, and the sake section signals that someone here is actually paying attention to what's being served.
Selection Deep Dive
The list runs 60-100 bottles and leans predictably on Oregon Pinot Noir — but leans well, with Walter Scott and CHO Wines' Dreamer's Reserve representing serious Willamette Valley producers rather than filler labels. France, Italy, Germany, and Chile round out the international section without much surprise, and the inclusion of Japanese sake alongside wine is the most interesting curatorial move on the whole list. The geographic range is solid, but don't come here expecting deep cuts from Jura or a dusty back-vintage Burgundy — this is a hotel rooftop, and the list reflects that reality without completely surrendering to it.
By the Glass
Thirteen by-the-glass options is a respectable count, and the $14–$22 price range is honest for the format and setting. The Crémant de Bourgogne from Famille Vincent is a smart glass-pour choice — bubbles that don't require a Champagne budget. We'd love to see more rotation here, but what's on offer covers the bases without embarrassing anyone.
Crémant de Bourgogne, Famille Vincent — $16
Méthode traditionnelle bubbles from Burgundy at a glass-pour price that won't make you wince. It's the smartest order on the list if you want something celebratory without the Champagne markup on an already-steep rooftop menu.
CHO Wines 'Dreamer's Reserve' Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley '21
CHO Wines is a small, BIPOC-owned Oregon producer that most guests will scroll right past in favor of a more familiar name. That's a mistake. The Dreamer's Reserve is the kind of Willamette Pinot that earns its place on any serious list, and here it sits quietly among the hotel-bar suspects waiting to be discovered.
Generic Chile or Italy bottle selections at top-end bottle pricing
The lower-tier international bottles from Chile and Italy sit at price points that don't reflect their actual market value — you're paying for the elevator ride and the view, not what's in the glass. If you're going bottle on the international side, push toward Oregon or France where the list actually has conviction.
Walter Scott Pinot Noir, Oregon + Departure Wings
Walter Scott makes Pinot with enough acidity and red fruit brightness to cut through the sticky, savory glaze on the wings without steamrolling the dish. It's a better call than defaulting to something heavier, and it keeps the Pacific Northwest theme running all the way through the meal.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Departure is not a wine destination, but it's a better wine list than the rooftop-hotel format deserves — Oregon producers anchor it with real credibility, and the sake program adds a dimension most comparable spots ignore entirely. Send a friend here for the Walter Scott and the view; tell them to skip the predictable Italian pour.
Comments
Get the Weekly Wingman
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.