Grappa

The wine list at Grappa lands like a statement — 95 labels deep, anchored hard in Italy, with enough California heavyweights sprinkled in to keep things interesting. The rustic farmhouse setting, all rough-sawn beams and terrazzo tile, makes sense when you're staring at a page of Barolo and Barbaresco. This is a list that was built with intention.

Piemonte is the star here, and Grappa doesn't phone it in — Vietti Lazzarito '14 Barolo, Sandrone Cannubi Boschis '12, Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga '17 Barbaresco, and a Traversa Single CRU Riserva '09 Barbaresco that's available both by the glass and bottle. Tuscany holds its own with Sassicaia '18, Ornellaia '17, and Antinori Solaia '17 all accounted for, alongside Gaja Ca'Marcanda Promis for those who want a taste of the big names without committing to a full bottle splurge. California gets a respectable nod with Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir, Silver Oak, and the kind of trophy bottles — Harlan Estate '16 at $3,000, Continuum '17 at $525 — that signal this room takes wine seriously. The Simčič Pinot Grigio from Brda-Collio is a quiet flex, showing someone on staff actually knows their Slovenian border wines.

Fifteen options by the glass is a solid program, ranging from the easy-drinking Frico by Scarpetta Lambrusco all the way up to a $50 pour of Traversa Barbaresco Riserva — that's a real range and not something most Italian restaurants in ski country bother with. The Gaja Ca'Marcanda Promis at $29/glass is the kind of pour that makes the list feel genuinely generous. We'd like to see more rotation to keep things lively, but what's here is well-chosen.