Italia Trattoria

The list reads like a love letter to the Italian canon — Tuscany, Piedmont, a nod to Washington State — and it fits the room. This is a neighborhood trattoria that takes its wine seriously enough without trying to be a wine bar. You're not going to feel lost or lectured.

Fifty to a hundred bottles is a respectable range for a casual Italian spot in Spokane, and Italia Trattoria uses the space well. The Italian backbone is strong — Antinori Chianti Classico and Marchesi di Barolo Barolo anchor the old-world side, with Bertani Amarone giving depth-seekers something to think about. The Washington State section is a smart local touch that keeps things from feeling like an airport wine list. Gaps exist — you won't find much outside Italy and the Pacific Northwest — but what's here is coherent and purposeful.

Eight to fifteen pours by the glass is a solid program for a restaurant at this price point. Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio is almost certainly on that list, which is fine — it's a crowd pleaser that does its job. We'd love to see more rotation and adventure in the glass pours, but for a cozy Browne's Addition trattoria, this gets the job done.