Glamorous room, mixed signals on the markup
Sugar House · Salt Lake City · Steakhouse and Seafood with Scandinavian/European Influences · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 13, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Walking into Kimi's, you get the full upscale steakhouse treatment — dim lighting, polished surfaces, the kind of room that makes you want to order something expensive. The wine list lands with some heft, running 80-plus bottles with a clear Italian lean that fits the European-influenced kitchen. It looks impressive on paper, though the pricing quickly reminds you this is a splurge destination, not a neighborhood bargain.
The list skews Old World, with Italy doing the heavy lifting — which makes sense for a place that hosts dedicated Italian wine evenings and clearly has someone paying attention to the program. There's enough range to satisfy a table with different tastes, from bubbles through whites, reds, and dessert pours, without feeling like a committee-designed crowd-pleaser list. That said, the depth has limits: you're not going to dig into obscure Sicilian producers or small-grower Barolo here, so manage expectations accordingly. The Scandinavian-seafood angle of the kitchen could really sing with a more adventurous white wine section, but what's here gets the job done.
Somewhere between 12 and 20 pours by the glass, which is a respectable spread for Salt Lake City. The Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling at $12 a glass is the standout accessible option — approachable, food-friendly, and actually priced reasonably against retail. The bubble options by the glass skew Cava-heavy, which is fine in concept but the markups attached to those bottles make you question the value proposition before you even lift the glass.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley — $12/glass
At roughly a 33% markup over retail, this is the only pour on the list where Kimi's isn't taking your wallet for a jog. It's a crisp, off-dry Riesling that's genuinely great with the oysters and seafood dishes — and it won't make you do painful math while you're trying to enjoy dinner.
Miquel Pons Brut Reserva Cava NV
Cava doesn't get the respect it deserves, and most people at a steakhouse skip straight to red without a second look. But this Spanish sparkler at the opening of a chops-and-oysters meal is a genuinely sharp move — bright, bready, refreshing, and a better bottle than its reputation suggests. Yes, the markup stings, but it's still the most interesting bubble on the list.
Segura Viudas Brut Rosé Cava NV
A 308% markup on a $12 retail bottle is a hard pass. Segura Viudas is a perfectly fine grocery store Cava — nothing wrong with it in the right context — but paying $49 for it at a restaurant table is the kind of math that ruins the mood. Order literally anything else.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley + Fresh Oysters on the Half Shell
This is a dead-simple call that works every time. The Riesling's touch of sweetness and bright acidity cuts the brine of the oysters without overpowering them, and at $12 a glass you can keep the pours coming through the whole raw bar course without wincing at the check.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Kimi's earns its reputation as one of Salt Lake City's better nights out, and the wine program has real bones — a sommelier, a thoughtful Italian-leaning list, and proper glassware. Just go in knowing the markups are aggressive on the bubbles, anchor yourself to the Riesling if you're watching the spend, and let the room do the rest of the work.
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