L'Express
French classics at 3am? Oui.
Flatiron · New York · French · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 20, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
A 24-hour French brasserie with a wine list that actually takes itself seriously — that's the surprise here. Most all-night joints are happy to hand you a warm Malbec in a rocks glass; L'Express is holding a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence it's earned continuously since 1999. The list is tight, focused, and unapologetically French.
Selection Deep Dive
With 150-250 bottles, this isn't a sprawling cellar — it's a curated tour of France and nothing else, which is exactly the right call for a brasserie on Park Ave South. Burgundy anchors the list with names like Domaine Drouhin and Louis Jadot, while Bordeaux gets some serious representation via Château Pichon Baron and Château Lynch-Bages. The Rhône shows up through Chapoutier and Guigal, and there's Loire coverage with Henri Bourgeois Sancerre and Trimbach Riesling holding down Alsace. It's not encyclopedic, but it's coherent — a list that knows what it is.
By the Glass
Twelve to twenty pours by the glass is genuinely solid for a brasserie format, landing in the $12–$18 range. There's enough here to work through a long late-night dinner without defaulting to the same Côtes du Rhône all night. We'd like to see a little more rotation, but what's here covers the major French bases.
Henri Bourgeois Sancerre — $18
Clean, precise Loire Sauvignon Blanc at a price point that feels honest for New York City. Drinks well above its glass-pour weight next to mussels or a simple salad.
Trimbach Riesling (Alsace)
Most people at L'Express are reaching for Burgundy or Bordeaux — which means the Trimbach Riesling gets overlooked constantly. That's a mistake. Alsatian Riesling at a brasserie is a natural match, and Trimbach is one of the region's most reliable producers.
Château Lynch-Bages
It's a great wine — no argument there — but a Pauillac of this caliber deserves a proper dining room and focused attention, not a 2am burger run. At its price point here, you're paying for the name more than the experience. Save Lynch-Bages for a night built around the bottle.
Guigal CĂ´tes du RhĂ´ne (RhĂ´ne Valley) + Steak Frites
Guigal's Côtes du Rhône is everything a steak frites wine should be — earthy, dark-fruited, a little rustic, and priced without embarrassment. It doesn't compete with the beef; it completes it. Classic brasserie logic.
🎲 The Bottom Line
L'Express is the rare late-night spot where the wine list is worth your actual attention — a focused, all-French selection backed by real sommelier presence in Thor Oren. If you need a serious glass of Burgundy at midnight in New York, this is your place.
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