Napoli 2

The wine list at Napoli 2 reads like a greatest hits of Italian-leaning restaurant staples with some California heavyweights sprinkled in for the crowd that came here for a steak. It's competent and organized, with enough range to keep most tables happy — but don't expect anyone to have wrestled over these selections.

The Italian backbone is where this list earns its keep: Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino anchor the Piedmont and Tuscany sections, and the presence of a Chianti Classico Riserva gives the middle of the list some genuine backbone. The California contingent — Cakebread, Rombauer, Jordan, Silver Oak, Caymus — is essentially the suburban steakhouse canon, and it's priced accordingly. There are no wild swings toward orange wine, natural producers, or lesser-known Italian regions like Campania or Friuli, which would have given this list some personality. It does the job for an upscale Italian dinner, but it's playing a very safe game.

Ten to fourteen pours by the glass is a respectable showing, and the Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio will be the workhorse here — reliable if unremarkable, and not exactly a bargain at these prices. We'd like to see the glass program lean harder into the Italian selections rather than defaulting to California Chardonnay as the go-to opener.