Old Vines Naples at Mercato
California classics meet Naples easy money
Mercato · Naples · American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 12, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
Old Vines lands in the middle of Mercato's shopping and dining hustle with a wine list that punches above its casual-fine-dining weight class. You open the menu and immediately see the hits — Caymus, Silver Oak, Opus One — and recognize this is a list built for the Naples crowd that knows what it wants and doesn't mind paying for it. It's comfortable, curated, and entirely unsurprising, which is both its strength and its ceiling.
Selection Deep Dive
The 200-plus bottle list leans hard into California and France, which tracks perfectly with their Wine Spectator Award of Excellence focus areas — and honestly, it's executed well enough to earn that credential. You've got the full California power roster: Far Niente Chardonnay, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Duckhorn Merlot, Jordan and Silver Oak Cabs, and Opus One sitting at the top like a trophy on a shelf. France shows up through Louis Jadot Burgundy and Chateau Margaux, giving the list some old-world credibility without going deep enough to call it a serious Bordeaux or Burgundy program. The gaps are real — natural wine, Rhône, Italy, Spain, and the Southern Hemisphere are largely absent — but what's here is well-chosen for the audience.
By the Glass
Twenty to thirty-five pours by the glass is genuinely impressive range, and the $12–$22 window keeps things approachable by Naples standards. We'd like to see more rotation and adventurous options in the glass program — right now it skews toward crowd-pleasing varietals — but the volume of choices means you're not stuck with a sad Sauvignon Blanc or a mystery Merlot. Ask what's open and fresh; that's always your best bet.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon — $12–$22 by the glass
Jordan consistently overdelivers for its price point — structured, approachable, and actually interesting. Getting it by the glass here lets you enjoy a solid Alexander Valley Cab without committing to a bottle that would run you significantly more at retail.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling
In a room full of Napa Cabs and French reds, a Washington State Riesling is the last thing anyone orders — which is exactly why you should. Bright acidity, low alcohol, and genuinely food-friendly, it's the underdog on a list built for trophy hunters.
Opus One
Opus One is a great wine, but it's also the most marked-up bottle in every restaurant that carries it. You're paying for the name recognition here, not a special experience — and in a Naples dining room without a dedicated sommelier program, the occasion doesn't match the invoice.
Far Niente Chardonnay + Seafood Tartare
Far Niente's Chardonnay brings enough oak structure and richness to hold its own against the umami punch of raw seafood without bulldozing the delicate flavors. It's a classic California white doing exactly what a California white is supposed to do.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Old Vines is exactly what it needs to be for Mercato — a polished, reliable wine list with genuine depth in its California and French lanes, even if the pricing skews toward the Naples wallet and the list doesn't take many risks. Send a friend here if they want something they recognize done well; send a wine nerd elsewhere.
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