Piccola Cucina Estiatorio
Sicily's volcanic soul hiding in SoHo
SoHo · New York · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 8, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
The list at Piccola Cucina Estiatorio doesn't try to be everything to everyone — it's Italian through and through, with Sicily taking up more real estate than anywhere else on the peninsula. For a cozy SoHo spot with tight tables and a lively din, the wine list punches well above its weight class. Wine Spectator handed them a Best of Award of Excellence in 2024, and honestly, the Sicilian depth alone earns it.
Selection Deep Dive
The Etna section is the real draw here — Benanti, Cornelissen, and Passopisciaro all in one place is a Nerello Mascalese trifecta that most Italian restaurants in this city couldn't pull off. Nero d'Avola gets similarly serious treatment with Gulfi, COS, and Planeta representing the grape's range from earthy and structured to ripe and approachable. The mainland shows up with conviction too: Giacomo Conterno and Vietti for Barolo, Biondi-Santi and Poggio di Sotto for Brunello — these are names that belong on serious lists, not afterthoughts. Whites are lean but smart, with Benanti's Carricante and Grillo-based options giving the volcanic white wine crowd something to get excited about.
By the Glass
With 12-18 pours on rotation, the by-the-glass program gives you a real window into the list rather than a consolation prize. We'd expect Sicilian representation front and center — a Nerello or a Grillo would be the move here. The range of price points makes it workable whether you're splitting a quick pasta or settling in for the night.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria (COS or Valle dell'Acate) — $55
Cerasuolo di Vittoria is one of Italy's most undervalued DOCG wines — Nero d'Avola and Frappato together make something bright, food-friendly, and genuinely interesting. At this price point in SoHo, it's a relative steal compared to the Barolo crowd at the other end of the list.
Benanti Carricante (Etna Bianco)
Most people come here and immediately gravitate toward the reds, but Benanti's Carricante from the eastern slopes of Etna is a white wine with mineral tension and a saline edge that you don't find in many restaurant lists. It's the kind of bottle you remember.
Brunello di Montalcino (Biondi-Santi)
Biondi-Santi is a legendary producer and the Brunello is excellent — but SoHo restaurant markup on a bottle that's already expensive at retail means you're paying a serious premium for the privilege. Save it for a wine shop or a splurge dinner where the full experience around the bottle matches the price tag.
Passopisciaro Etna Rosso + Pasta
Etna Rosso's high-acid, volcanic-mineral backbone is built for tomato-driven pasta. Passopisciaro brings structure and a smoky depth that cuts through richness without fighting the dish — it's the kind of pairing that feels inevitable once you've had it.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Piccola Cucina Estiatorio is the rare SoHo restaurant where the wine list actually has a point of view — and that view is firmly planted on the slopes of Etna. If Sicily is your thing, or you want it to become your thing, this list is worth the trip.
Comments
Get the Weekly Wingman
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.