Sarto

The wine list at Sarto arrives looking like it means business — a focused, Italy-only lineup that mirrors the kitchen's regional commitment. It's organized by style and region, which is refreshing, and the breadth from Piedmont to Sicily tells you someone actually thought this through. It's not a casual afterthought list, but it's also not trying to be a wine bar.

The list runs 80-130 bottles deep with a clear emphasis on Italy's heavy hitters: Barolo and Brunello anchor the reds, while Soave Classico and Vermentino di Sardegna give the whites some actual personality beyond the usual Pinot Grigio parade. Campania and Sicily get real representation, with Nero d'Avola showing up as a reliable mid-list option. The regional Italian focus is coherent and matches the menu, though it leaves almost no room for guests who want to wander outside Italy — there's essentially nowhere to go if Italian wine isn't your thing. That's a commitment, and mostly we respect it.

Ten to sixteen pours by the glass is a solid program for a downtown trattoria at this price point, and the range likely covers the major Italian regions represented on the bottle list. What we don't know is how often those pours rotate — and based on what we can see, this feels like a curated-but-stable roster rather than a list that changes with the seasons. If you're eating lighter dishes, push toward the whites; the southern Italian options here tend to outperform expectations.