Screen Door
Southern comfort food, surprisingly decent pours
Pearl District · Portland · Southern · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 17, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
You're here for fried chicken and waffles — and Screen Door knows it. The wine list isn't trying to compete with the food for attention, but it's not an afterthought either. There's a genuine local lean here, with Willamette Valley representation and a sparkling red from Italy that signals someone behind the scenes has a sense of humor and taste.
Selection Deep Dive
The list is compact — somewhere in the 25-40 bottle range — but it punches with intention. Oregon gets its due, with Patricia Green Cellars anchoring the local Pinot presence, which is exactly the right call for a Portland restaurant. Italy shows up via the Lambrusco Grasparossa, a smart move that bridges the gap between 'wine drinker' and 'someone who wants something fun with biscuits.' The gap is anything outside Oregon and Italy — if you're looking for depth in Spain, Burgundy, or California beyond the basics, you won't find it here.
By the Glass
Eight to twelve pours by the glass is a respectable spread for a Southern joint, and the happy hour house wine at $5 a glass is a genuinely good deal if you're keeping it casual. The glass program tracks closely with the bottle list — Oregon-forward, Italy represented — which is a sign of consistency if not ambition. Rotation appears limited, so don't expect surprises between visits.
Lambrusco Grasparossa (Sparkling Red) — N/A
This is the move at Screen Door. A sparkling red from Emilia-Romagna with the right amount of fizz and dark fruit is practically engineered for fried chicken. It's the rare wine list pick that's also the fun pick.
BT Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir
Patricia Green is a Willamette Valley institution making some of the most site-expressive Pinot in Oregon. Most people at Screen Door are ordering bourbon. That's their loss — this bottle rewards anyone willing to look past the cocktail menu.
Hedges Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon
At $57.20 for a bottle you can find at retail for $36, that's a 59% markup on a wine that isn't a destination pour. There's nothing wrong with Hedges, but it's not a reason to order a bottle at a Southern restaurant when the Lambrusco exists.
Lambrusco Grasparossa (Sparkling Red) + Fried Chicken and Waffles
Bubbles cut through fried fat, and the Lambrusco's slight sweetness plays off the maple syrup without turning dessert-y. It's a loud, fun combination that matches the energy of the dish.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Screen Door is a Wild Card — a Southern comfort food spot that has no business having a thoughtful Oregon wine list, and yet here we are. The markups sting a little, but the Lambrusco alone is worth the detour.
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