Three thousand bottles and Hollywood is watching
Beverly Hills · Los Angeles · Modern California Cuisine · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 21, 2026
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at Spago lands like a thud — the good kind. At roughly 3,000 bottles, it's the kind of document that makes you set down your phone and actually pay attention. This isn't a vanity list padded with safe commercial labels; there are real decisions made here, with depth across Burgundy, California, Bordeaux, Champagne, Rhône, Italy, and Germany that most restaurants wouldn't attempt.
California Cabernet is the obvious hometown hero, with cult and library selections from Napa that read like a who's-who of the appellation — and they've done the work to source back-vintages, not just current releases. The Burgundy section is where this list really separates itself: aged red Burgundy verticals, grower-level selections, and bottles like the Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs from Comte Lafon in magnum signal a program that takes the region seriously. German Riesling gets meaningful shelf space — top Mosel and Rheingau producers show up — which is rare and appreciated in a room that could easily lean all-California. The Iberian Peninsula whites are a newer addition that feels genuinely curious rather than trend-chasing, with selections like the Albillo 'Yunquera' from Bodegas Valduero adding a layer of intrigue.
Twenty-two by-the-glass options is a real commitment for a restaurant at this level, and the range spans enough ground to satisfy someone who wants a smart pour without committing to a bottle. Prices run $14–$35 per glass, which is honest for Beverly Hills. We'd love to see a bit more rotation energy here — the program has the cellar depth to make the BTG list a genuinely exciting rotating showcase, and it's not quite doing that yet.
Nicolas Rossignol Beaune Premier Cru 2013 — Bottle
Aged village-level Burgundy from a serious producer, on a list that could easily charge trophy-wine prices for everything. This is the kind of wine that rewards the guest who looks past the Napa Cabs — it drinks above its station and represents one of the few places on this list where the markup doesn't feel punishing relative to what's in the glass.
Albillo 'Yunquera', Bodegas Valduero
An Iberian white on a list dominated by California and Burgundy is easy to scroll past, and most tables here will. Don't. Valduero is better known for Ribera del Duero reds, which makes this Albillo a genuine curiosity — aromatic, textured, and completely unlike anything else on the list. Order it before your food arrives and watch your table have a conversation about it.
Krug Grande Cuvée NV
At $650 on the list against a retail of around $250, this is a 160% markup on a Champagne that's already well-known enough to have a price anchor in your head. Krug is great — we're not arguing that — but you're paying a very steep Beverly Hills premium for the label. If you want Champagne here, dig into the grower selections where the value story is meaningfully better.
Aged Red Burgundy (Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, Comte Lafon — magnum) + Handmade agnolotti
The earthy, silky character of aged Volnay from Lafon — especially in magnum, which ages more gracefully — is a natural counterpart to rich, butter-finished pasta. The wine's savory depth and gentle acidity cut through without overwhelming the delicacy of the filling. This is the kind of pairing that makes a tasting menu feel worth every dollar.
🔥 The Bottom Line
Spago's wine list is the real deal — a deep, thoughtfully curated program with genuine range and staff who can navigate it. The markups on trophy bottles are steep enough to sting, but if you're willing to explore past the obvious names, there's serious drinking to be done here.
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.