Grandma's Basement Called, It Wants Its Wine Back
Payne-Phalen · St. Paul · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 25, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Yarusso Bros has been feeding St. Paul's East Side since 1933, and the wine list reads like it hasn't been touched since about 1987. You're not here for a wine revelation — you're here for red-checkered tablecloths and a bowl of minestrone that tastes like someone's nonna made it. The wine list is essentially a footnote.
The list clocks in somewhere between 20 and 40 bottles, which sounds reasonable until you see what's on it. Italy and California are the stated focus, but the execution leans heavily on mass-market brands — Cavit, Ecco Domani, Yellow Tail — the kind of stuff you'd find in the grocery store wine aisle between the pasta sauce and the paper towels. There's no real regional depth, no interesting producers, and no sign that anyone curating this list has spent time thinking about what might actually complement the kitchen's output. If you're hoping for a Sicilian Nero d'Avola or a proper Barbera to cut through the Sunday gravy, you're going to be disappointed.
The by-the-glass program runs 6 to 10 options, all priced between $5 and $6 a pour, which is at least honest about what you're getting. Cavit Pinot Grigio, Cavit Merlot, Ecco Domani, Beringer White Zinfandel, Yellow Tail Chardonnay — it's a greatest hits of inoffensive, forgettable wine. Rotation appears to be nonexistent; this list is set and left alone.
Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio — $6
At $6 a glass, it's a step above the Cavit and actually retails for nearly $11 a bottle, so the per-glass math is about as fair as this list gets. Light, neutral, and cold — it does the job alongside a plate of pasta without demanding your attention.
Ecco Domani Merlot
Nobody orders Merlot at a place like this, which means it probably moves slowly and is served in decent condition. Soft, low-tannin, and approachable — it actually works with the tomato-heavy menu better than you'd expect from a $6 glass wine.
Beringer White Zinfandel
Sweet, pink, and proud of it — but at a 214% markup on a bottle that retails under $7, you're paying restaurant prices for a wine that belongs at a gas station picnic. Order a Peroni instead.
Ecco Domani Merlot + Spaghetti and Meatballs
The merlot's soft fruit and low acidity don't fight the sweet tomato sauce, and the light body keeps it from overwhelming the meat. It's not a sophisticated pairing — but neither is spaghetti and meatballs, and that's exactly the point.
❌ The Bottom Line
Yarusso Bros is a St. Paul institution worth visiting for the food, the history, and the vibe — just don't make the wine the reason you go. Order a glass of whatever's cold, eat the meatballs, and enjoy it for what it is.
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